giovanna elgelbert’s crystal clear vision
Swarovski’s creative director Giovanna Engelbert tells of her preference for the grandiose, the Austrian artists who inspire her, and forging a new era for the brand.
There are many luminous facets to modern-day crystals, but beyond their geometry, cut, brilliance and hue lies their most important property of all — innovation. At the helm of Swarovski — and the recent rebirth of the acclaimed crystal producer — is visionary creative Giovanna Engelbert. Appointed Swarovski’s global creative director in May 2020, the multi-talented powerhouse debuted her vision for the brand in early 2021, celebrating 126 years of quality crystal craftsmanship and a bold new view of a wondrous universe that welcomes exploration and self-expression.
To be tasked with the creation of a new brand identity for a world-renowned accoutrement atelier is a challenge, to be sure. But 42-year-old Engelbert comes with her own credentials — not to mention her highly sought after sartorial style — having made her mark on the fashion world in the noughties as a model, fashion stylist, editor, consultant and street-style icon. Street-style aficionados will recall her as a familiar face on the international fashion week circuit, the savvy Italian’s innate sense of glamour, maximalist approach to colour and fearless devotion to leopard print making her a regular subject of street-style photographers Scott Schuman, Tommy Ton and the late Bill Cunningham.
Engelbert is just as comfortable behind the camera as she is in front of it. She has decades of experience as a contributor to renowned titles L’Uomo Vogue, Vogue Japan and W, and providing her creative services to international luxury brands such as Dior, Tory Burch and Bottega Veneta.
“Looking back, all my experience is covered under the roof of one discipline: creativity,” she says. “My work as a consultant gave me the opportunity to keep up with show business, with actors and singers, with the fashion industry, and finally, I can take all my knowledge from the past 20 years and put it into one soul for Swarovski.
“I had been working with Swarovski since 2016 when Markus Langes-Swarovski asked me to take over the creative direction of the Components business [Swarovski’s industry arm],” she continues. “It was a great honour to then be named as creative director for the whole company; my new role is a natural evolution and covers all creative aspects of Swarovski.”
The beating heart of Swarowski’s new era is the Wonderlab. “This imaginary world is where science and magic meet,” says Engelbert. “It’s where the essence of a crystal lives, an extraordinary place where the imagination takes flight and expresses itself in a million different facets.”
But the new Wonderlab isn’t without Swarovski’s heritage and innovative roots that started with a simple trip to an electricity fair. On visiting, Swarovski’s late founder, Daniel Swarovski, became captivated by the engineering and magic of light. His dream became fulfilling his vision of creating a diamond for every woman using a machine that would shape crystal into a perfect cut.
“I see this story as the seed of the Wonderlab,” says Engelbert. “It’s a place where light is the starting point, where wonder is engineered, and where science meets magic in the most unexpected ways.”
The Wonderlab’s first foray into the world, Engelbert’s ‘Collection I’, is a study of Daniel Swarovski’s early drawings and crystal-cutting machine inventions — “a way to rewrite the story [of Swarovski],” says Engelbert. “It sounds very ambitious, but fundamentally it was a return to the basics, to crystal as a material.”
One look at the strikingly sculptural body of a Swarovski crystal and it’s evident that the focus is on the unparalleled nature of the cut, clarity and brilliance. But there’s an injection of energy that can’t be mistaken — the influence of Engelbert’s vibrant personal style.
“I have a lot of freedom at Swarovski and can put all my creativity and also my personal style into the collections,” she confirms. “I have the attitude that grandiose jewellery can be worn day or night, casually or glamorously, but always with a wink. I wanted to create pieces for the most extravagant parts of us.”
With the recent launch of ‘Collection II’, Engelbert continues to explore Swarovski’s rich Austrian heritage as well, combining an investigation into the properties of crystals with the influences of Austrian arts, including the works of the Wiener Werkstätte and Gustav Klimt.
Although the Swarovski Wonderlab is, as Engelbert says, an “imagined place”, the vision of science and magic, extravagance and elegance will not only manifest itself in Swarovski stores and creations, but also well beyond them. Swarovski’s new experiences, events and retail concepts are set to redefine the brand’s public perception and to inspire generations to come. With the unveiling of 28 new Instant Wonder stores around the globe, Swarovski is set to enchant guests worldwide, providing a warm welcome with candy-like dreamscapes filled to the brim with the best and brightest of the brand’s crystal offering.
Swarovski is not without a strong e-commerce and digital presence, but the brave decision to increase its bricks-and-mortar footprint in this climate is rightfully justified under Engelbert’s stewardship. “After the challenging past months, everyone is starving for optimism, energy and light,” she says. “That’s why I wanted to create a store where people get a feeling of wonder and magic, that brings joy and surprises through its design.”
Words by Courtney Joe. Images supplied.
This feature was originally published in Fashion Quarterly magazine, summer 2021 in partnership with Swarovski.